Over the years Puerto Rico has strung together a long chain of celebrations into the “Longest Christmas in the World”. This has come about thanks to the many cultural influences that have made the Island what it is today. Christopher Columbus, the first European to experience the island described the native Taínos as a very happy people who were constantly laughing and enjoying themselves. The historical record talks about the traditional Taíno Areyto to celebrate different events, weddings and more. Put 2 and 2 together and you begin to get an idea
The Spanish with their many saints, virgins, birth of Jesus and three kings traditions created a Christmas calendar that stretched the celebrations into January. Finally the Americans brought Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas gift giving on the 25th and these were were readily incorporated into the party calendar. January 6th or Three Kings Day was the traditional gift giving day but over time Christmas Day with all its associated decorations and lights took center stage. The result is more than 45 days of Christmas in Puerto Rico!
A feast for all
As with all celebrations food, drink and music are an indispensable part of the occasions. Christmas in Puerto Rico has its own set of flavors, sounds and customs. The top food that signals the season on the Island is spit roasted whole hog (lechón a la vara), rice with pigeon peas (arroz con gandules), pasteles, a sort of tamale but cooked in banana leaves, blood sausage (morcilla) and for desert tembleque or coconut pudding and arroz con dulce, sweet rice with coconut milk.
These are the classics and the best place to try them is the many lechoneras or roast pig restaurants that you usually find in the mountains. This is their high season and people flock to them to celebrate. A particular treat is the “chicharrón” or pork skin crackling. When it’s done right it’s absolutely delicious and a sure indication of the talent of the chef. The traditional drink that everybody looks for is Coquito. It’s similar to eggnog but it’s made with rum and, coconut milk and cream with spices.
The music of Christmas in Puerto Rico
Music is also an important part of the celebrations and there’s a whole category of Puerto Rican Christmas music compilations and playlists available (check out ¡Feliz Navidad! Instituto de Cultura Puertorriqueña on Spotify for old school classics).
Most of the “true” Christmas songs feature the unique sound of the Cuatro Puertorriqueño. This guitar like instrument in the shape of a violin has ten metal strings and is plucked rather than strummed. “Despacito” features a Cuatro in its intro. This sound is usually associated with the mountain “jíbaros” and trios.
Another popular type of music is plena played with hand drums or panderos. A güiro and maracas may be included along with horns such as saxophones, trumpets and trombones. This music originated as a way to satirize events or based on particular happenings such as when the government agents acquired a fast boat and the contrabanders were forced to end their business. The most popular songs are repeated every year. Plena also features improvisation by the singers who use it to criticize or make fun of politicians, events and more. In the early 1900’s it was the music associated with the “underworld” and was even declared illegal up until the 1930’s, which probably made varoi it even more popular.
The 45+ days of Christmas
The special occasions or dates also abound. The official kickoff is Thanksgiving but then you have Nochebuena or Christmas Eve and the midnight mass or Misa de Gallo celebration in some churches. Afterwards people may go back to their houses and have a party. New Years is widely celebrated and then there’s Three Kings Day on January 6th. The largest party is in the town of Juana Díaz with a procession, music food and fun. The 8 days that follow are called “Las Octavitas” or The Eights where people continue their party agendas. During this time the parrandas are offered. Groups of friends and family get together with musical instruments and make surprise visits to friends houses, who traditionally open their doors and serve drinks and whatever food they may have. After a short time they leave to visit the next “victim”.
Finally there’s the massive street celebration “Las Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastian” held on the third weekend of January. In 2024 an estimated 700,000 people visited the Old City during the four day party. The event takes over the entire Old San Juan with various musical stages, drink, food parades, artisans and more. They are well organized with an efficient public transportation setup since cars are prohibited during the SanSe, as it’s known.
We’ve only scratched the surface of what Christmas in Puerto Rico has to offer. There are many other celebrations in towns, hotels and more all over.
